More gutsy Italian reds wines from Tuscany's incredible 1997 vintage continue to come into the market in the northeast. The buy flag is flying high for almost every Chianti out there.

1997 Castello di Monastero "Chianti Classico" (about $15, Mall Wine in Cambridge, others) What a beauty, my affordable favorite so far, oaked to perfection, superbly ripe and rich, a bargain.

1997 Villa Puccini (about $10, Best Cellars in Brookline) This is the thrill of a great vintage: even the cheap stuff tastes great. Contains a big dose of Merlot and oak, which makes for a smooth and friendly wine.

1997 Castello di Poppiano "Chianti Colli Fiorentini" (about $9, everywhere) Very traditional, old-style Chianti that's full of fresh juice, country air, smoke and spice. There's a "Riserva" for about $15 that's worth a try. These hill town wines (colli = hills) are really unknown and underpriced right now.