My friends Felicia Sanchez and Michael Kirkpatrick of the excellent Centre Street Café in Jamaica Plain introduced me to Jaffurs wines about six months ago, and I'm glad they did. At the time, this bottling was called Jaffurs "Matilija Cuvee," but everyone outside Ojai, California (home of Matilija Creek) found it completely unpronounceable, so today it's simply known as Jaffurs "Cuvee."

Regardless of the nomenclature, this is one of the finest Rhone style California reds I've tasted -- dense, dark, almost inky, full of ripe fruit flavors and lots of yummy oak. A composition of 2/3 Grenache and 1/4 Syrah -- traditional grapes from the Rhone Valley -- leaves room for a dash of untraditional Cabernet Franc that adds depth and richness.

Most amazing of all is the fact that Craig Jaffurs' first vintage was 1994, only three years before these grapes came off the vine. He also makes delicious Viognier that's an excellent alternative to the chardonnay everyone claims to be tired of.

Jaffurs is a wine that may not necessarily be on the shelf at your local wine shop, but it's worth going the extra mile to find it. Distributed in Massachusetts by Vintage Imports, and available at Natick Wine and Spirits, Holden Wine and Spirits, and Blanchard's in Jamaica Plain. About $22.