Filmmaker Francis Coppola, already famous for works of genius like "The Godfather" and "Apocalypse Now," has now performed a work of wine genius by buying back and reconstituting the original properties of the old Inglenook winery in California. Niebaum-Coppola is the new winery, and it is important for a couple of different reasons.

First, Inglenook has always had a place in US wine history, and it always will. It is among the oldest original properties still in production, and now it's back in one piece again.

From a winemaking perspective, the land has demonstrated that it can deliver outstanding wine of world-class quality. From 1939 until 1964, cask-numbered cabernets from Inglenook were central to identifying California cabernet as the equal of French Bordeaux.

Mainly, Inglenook is a winery and a name in need of saving. At the height of its success, Inglenook fell into the hands of a large multi-national booze concern that drove the thing literally into the ground for more than a decade.

By the time the suits were done with it, the Inglenook name meant nothing more than cheap white wine.

In a way, Inglenook's resurrection as Niebaum-Coppola shows how people can survive bad corporate management, turn away from misguided marketing, and go back to doing the thing they'd been doing right all along. Now Coppola has a place in that history by virtue of saving Inglenook and delivering it to the 21st century.

Niebaum-Coppola produces a whole line of wines, starting with the tasty and under-$10 Bianco and Rosso and reaching estate wines and the awesome Rubicon when money is no object. Right in the middle, around $15 where you and I shop, is the Coppola "Color Label" series: Gold Label Chardonnay, Red Label Zin, Green Label Syrah, and the like.

So far, I have loved everything I have tasted in this series, and the Coppola Black Label Claret is no exception. The name "Claret" suggests a sturdy and affordable Bordeaux-like wine, and this is on target, but with that California ripeness we all love.

Mostly cabernet, plenty of oak, plenty of tannic grip, it's got aromas of bark, sap, and fresh fruit that make the wine interesting after the first sip and great with food. Available literally everywhere in New England, specifically Trader Joe's in Brookline and Cambridge, Wine Vault in Framingham, and Post Road in Wayland.