Looking into the future through a glass of bubbles...
January 1, 2006
Edouard de Pomiane, in his indispensable book "French Cooking In Ten Minutes: Adapting To The Rhythm Of Modern Life" (published by North Point Press), concedes that times have changed and have changed life as we knew it in some profound way too, so much so that we must alter something elemental about ourselves -- how we cook and eat -- in order to survive.As the modern technological world whips by, Pomiane works hard to find that ten-minute window of cooking opportunity in the first place. Having carved out the time, he always advocates doing something spectacular divided into numerous small courses, the more the better. With Pomiane, a tiny pear, a thin slice of blue cheese, and a piece of crusty bread can be a course, and anybody could make that in 30 seconds.
The punch line, of course, is that the book was originally published in 1930, a time that moved at foot speed and by horsepower. It contains essentially two dangerous ideas: one, the realization that we're losing control of our time as if it's a commercially tradable commodity, and two, that French cooking of any value could be accomplished in ten minutes.Pomiane masks these insights with relentless good cheer and an almost American "go team" attitude; the recipes are adornments of just a few lines about cooking the thing, then encouragement. In the introduction -- "Some Indispensible Concepts For Understanding This Beautiful Book" -- he knows that this is going to be a "beautiful" book, mainly because he hasn't even written a word of it yet. At this point in its life, what else can it be but beautiful?
Like Pomiane, I know it is going to be a great year, because I'm at the beginning of it, with a glass of delicious sparkling wine in my hand. When you're refracting New Year's Eve through a wall of bubbles, how can you think anything else?
Sparkling With Value
Usually, it's no challenge convincing my New England neighbors to go for the frugal choice, except when it comes to expensive wine. It's scary spending $100 on a bottle of Champagne, but at least you know what you're getting. The $10 range is a complete crapshoot, and people are sometimes even more insecure at this price point. All these sparklers are the top wines in their underpopulated categories, so the buy flag is up.
NV Cristalino Brut and Rose (about $8, sometimes less on sale) Bargains from Spain abound in whites and reds these days, so it's no surprise to taste these super quality sparklers too. Don't let the teeny tiny price tag scare you away.
NV Zardetto Prosecco (about $12) Soft, smooth, gentle carbonation, very low in alcohol, perfect for people who think they don't like sparkling wine.
NV Gruet Brut and Blanc de Noir (about $15, on sale around Boston for about $11 these days) My favorite American sparklers these days come from New Mexico. The Gruet family emigrated from France where they were also in the wine business. I especially like the Blanc de Noir, a golden, almost white sparkler made from red grapes.
NV Pierre Sparr Cremant d'Alsace (about $15) Friendly, easy-to-drink wine made from pinot blanc and other grapes grown on the French-German border. Buy it now before these wines become more famous.
NV Mumm Napa Blanc de Noir (about $20) Absolutely fantastic, salmon-colored sparkler that's big, rich, and creamy. The color is simply outrageous and the flavors are all cherry and apricot. Save this one for the fish course.Keeping It Real Champagne
NV Deutz Brut (about $40, but it has been on sale around Boston for $30) My favorite Champagne of all. Intensely focused, razor-sharp carbonation lifts crystal clear fruit right out of the glass.
NV Pol Roger Brut (about $40) When it absolutely, positively has to be Champagne, Pol Roger is a great choice in a classic style.
NV Nicolas Feuillatte Brut (about $30, but I've seen it on sale around Boston for $20) A fantastic value in well-made Champagne that just keeps getting better and better. Look for the delightful rose as well.
Show Me The Wine Money!
Here's a short list of Champagnes for those times when only something outrageously expensive will do.
1997 Bollinger Grand Annee (about $100)
1996 Veuve Clicquot Grand Dame (about $100)
1995 Deutz Cuvee William Deutz (about $100)
1995 Pol Roger Cuvee Winston Churchill (about $125)
AVAILABILITY: These sparkling wines are available nationally, but not all of them will be available everywhere. Your local wine shop should be able to use this list as a guide.
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