November Wine Surprise
A wine lover's agenda for our next president...

By Jonathon Alsop
November 3, 2004

There's every reason to think that we won't even know who our next president is by the time the newspaper comes out next Wednesday.

America will have much bigger fish to fry than to be thinking about food. The "Dining Out" section, "Cooking @ Home" and "Your Vittles" will take a second, much smaller stage.

Be that as it may, and understanding the plight of wine in the world is the last thing on the presidential mind, here's my short list of policy goals for the next four years, regardless of who wins.

RECLASSIFICATION

Wine needs to be de-classified as an "alcoholic beverage," "liquor," or "spirit" and re-classified as "food." Not sure this is within the power of the executive branch, but if a Constitutional amendment is required, I say go for it.

FREE THE GRAPES

Let anyone in any state buy any wine from anywhere and have it shipped home. This means you can live in Nebraska and buy wine from a favorite wine shop in Cincinnati and all the difference you pay is the shipping. If you're on vacation and visit a winery, you should be able to buy a case or two of wine and have it shipped to yourself.

LET'S MAKE UP

The next administration needs to make it a priority to bring the French and their wine back into the American sphere of influence.

First of all, the French 2003 vintage is an 11 on a scale of one to 10, and that's just now coming to market here in the Northeast; we need a political pipeline to those great wines, and it's OK with me if Haliburton builds it. Second, the French are getting killed in the international markets by the Australians and South Americans, so now's a good time to make a deal and get paid in Euros. Finally, let's just accept the fact that the French aren't going to fight, but they are going to make some tremendously delicious wines, and that's good enough.

Cue the dead horse. Cue the floggers. I'm off to strike a blow for liberty.

2003 Ridgeback Sauvignon Blanc (about $12, available from AIDC Imports, 800-426-4742)

For a long time, South African white wine in North America was limited to a few excellent and expensive super-sweet dessert wines against a sea of plain whites, uneventful Chardonnay, and fruity flat Chenin Blanc. Quality, price, uniqueness, and interest fell off steeply, and the new South Africa became more known for its almost indigenous red grape Pinotage.

At the turn of the century -- inspired perhaps by the success of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc like Cloudy Bay and Huia, and steering well free if its own political problems -- exports of South African Sauvignon Blanc began to increase. Mulderbosch led the way with a lean intense flavorful style and an unforgettable vertical label.

Ten years later, we're beginning to see style and price come together in affordable, fruit-driven wines that are elegant and interesting. South Africa's style is less intensely perfumed than New Zealand's, and the wines more resemble good white Bordeaux, where Sauvignon Blanc and the slippery Semillon are often blended.

Ridgeback Sauvignon Blanc is wonderfully smooth and silky with a very soft and pleasing acidity. It smells like melon, pear, and maybe a little mango; the wine is full-bodied and nicely viscous on the tongue. I'd have guessed it was a much more expensive French white Bordeaux, so it is firmly on the "to-buy" list.

This Ridgeback would be tremendous with crispy sauteed scallops or a big bowl of steamed mussels.

Size Matters

Morton's Steak House and Beringer Vineyards have teamed up to help "Share Our Strength" fight hunger by creating the world's largest bottle of wine ever and then auctioning it off at Sotheby's in New York November 20. Weighing in at over 300 pounds, this giant -- named Maximus -- contains almost 175 regular bottles of 2001 Beringer Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, which normally sells for around $100, depending on the vintage. The online bidding (www.sothebys.com/maximus) has already reached $22,000.

Maximus will make its final pre-auction appearance in Boston on Monday, November 8 at Morton's, 699 Boylston Street. $40 admission includes hors d'oeuvres, wine, and unlimited gawking. Call 617-266-5858 for tickets and information.

Wine For Art's Sake

Framingham's Danforth Museum of Art hosts an excellent pre-holiday wine tasting this weekend. Sponsored by Paul Morganti and Fifth Ave. Liquors, the tasting will feature more than 100 wines, all for the sake of art. Best bet would be to swing by Paul's regular Saturday tasting at the store from 2-5 pm, then head over to the museum.

Vintage Danforth: A Rare Blend Of Art And Wine
Saturday, November 6, 7 pm, at the Danforth Museum of Art, 125 Union Ave. in Framingham. $50 admission benefits the museum and its programs. Call 508-620-0050, extension 10 for tickets and more information.