Case Syrah, Shiraz
Giving by the dozens this holiday...

By Jonathon Alsop
December 12, 2004

Last week's Rule Of Three -- three medium-priced bottles of wine make a better gift than one hugely expensive bottle of wine -- has grown into this week's Rule Of Twelve. Make mine a whole case this year, in this case syrah, shiraz, a sunny pink version, and one gratuitous favorite white wine to balance out the box.

There are some inside advantages to gift giving by the case you should be sure not to miss. One is the fancy wooden wine box, which you are absolutely entitled to when you buy a whole case of wine, even if it's not the box the wine came in. Simply say, "This is a gift. Could I please have a fancy wooden wine box... or two?"

It makes a great present and presentation tied up with a wide red satin ribbon. The top is typically destroyed in opening the case, so people can peer into the box and pilfer it as it sits under the tree.

Second advantage is the discount you should enjoy on a mixed case of wine. You should be getting at least 20 percent off, and I know a place that routinely gives 25 percent off two cases or more. That makes your favorite $10 wine only $7.50, almost as if you were shopping with Euros.

Finally, a 12-bottle case of wine represents the opportunity to give the experience of a favorite wine more than once. Make sure in your selections that you keep it simple: six wines, two bottles each is perfect.

2003 Paringa Shiraz (about $12, imported by Skurnik Wines, 516-677-9300)
You can feel the wonderful weight of this wine as soon as you take it into your mouth. It's dark red, dense and deep with a low center of gravity and flavors of wood, fig, date, and plum. On top is bright, sunny Australian fruit, full of delicious cherry and pomegranate juice. This wine is an example of how Australia has raised the quality bar on bargain wine around the world. Even ten years ago, a $12 wine would not have been nearly this delicious, at least not on a regular basis. Paringa also makes very good merlot and a tasty white blend of chardonnay, semillon and sauvignon blanc.

2003 Four Sisters Shiraz (about $11, available nationally)
Here's another awesome Aussie that focuses on the round, soft, smooth side of shiraz. This is a yummy, flavorful red that tastes faintly of chocolate, which is why I think my wife likes it so much. You could serve this with anything except the spiciest red meat dishes, but you could also open it early and just sip.

2003 Ravenswood Shiraz (about $12, available everywhere)
Everybody wants to make the next great red wine to compete with shiraz for the hearts and palates of the world wine market. South Africa has pinotage, Argentina has malbec, Chile has just found carmenere, and lots of California producers are repackaging their syrah as post-modern shiraz. At the end of the day, if they had their choice, all of them would just make and sell tons of shiraz, which is exactly what Ravenswood has done. This shiraz is juicy and fresh, bright and radiant with blueberry and raspberry. The grapes all come from the Barossa Valley and McLaren Vale, two big wine regions in south Australia famous for big-boned reds. This one will remind you of summer.

2001 Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage (about $15, imported by Frederick Wildman, 212-355-0700)
Crozes-Hermitage (crows air-mee-TAJ) comes from southern France, and it's made almost entirely from syrah in an old world, classic style. The wine is black, inky, almost opaque and smells wonderfully like autumn outside: brisk, leafy, earthy, and a little like rain. It tastes like dried cherries, figs, vanilla, and a bit of cream. Next door neighbor Hermitage is much more famous and much more expensive, but the grapes and winemaking philosophies are almost identical here at a third the price. Serve this with a cheese course of brie, blue, and aged gouda.

2003 Renwood Syrah Rose (about $10, distributed nationally, available at some Trader Joe's)
Pink wine is nothing but fun, and during the winter when the sun starts setting around three in the afternoon and it's dark as midnight by six, a glass of rose reminds us a little of what summer was like. Renwood's rose is very full-bodied, so don't be afraid to try this wine with chicken or even lean red meat.

2003 Adelsheim Pinot Blanc (about $15, nationally distributed by Solera Imports, 614-932-0730 and Winebow, 212-255-9414)
It's neither syrah nor shiraz, but even in winter no one lives by red wine alone. Adelsheim is a major pinot noir producer in Oregon, but they also make a few whites like pinot gris and this wonderful pinot blanc. Adelsheim is full-bodied and nicely viscous on the tongue. Fruit flavors of pear, white peach, apple, and honeydew are everywhere. It's best to serve this a little cool (but not cold) with some prosciutto and melon.